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No Power at the helm, low voltage on white wire

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  • No Power at the helm, low voltage on white wire

    This weekend I started to trim down the motor and the trim stopped. Tried the key switch and it was dead too. Basically from researching on the net, I see this problem has popped up a few times. The console controls are dead including the tilt and trim but the tilt and trim at the motor works. If you let it sit for a while and hit the key switch or trim, in engages for a second the dead again.

    I checked the white wire voltage and it is 3 - 4 volts. I also checked it at the motor on both sides of the main plug and it is 3-4 volts also, which is different from what I have seen on the web.

    Does anyone have a suggestion? Would it be OK to connect the white wire to the battery and be done with it?

  • #2
    Did more trouble shooting, still hit a wall. I was thinking the capacitor that attaches to the relay could be bad because the voltage has a steady climb but pulled the capacitor out and it will hold 12V. Swapped the two identical relays and still nothing. The relay has this part number on the side: 156780-2480 12V. I don't have an ESR meter to check the capacitor so I think I will replace it since I already have it out. If I charge the capacitor to 12v, the circuit holds 12v and the tilt will activate for a fraction of a second then dead again. The capacitor is connected to ground on one side and the infamous white wire on the other.

    Dealers are backed up for two weeks and my manual should be in shortly.

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    • #3
      Interesting development. Put in the new capacitor, same spec 2200 mF, 25V, only difference is the new one has a 105C temp rating and the old one had was 85C. Voltage was still low, jumped 12V to the new capacitor and the systems charged to 12V, tried the helm trim, it kicked in, then off and voltage was back to less than a volt, then started rising as usual. Let it sit for a bit while the shade progressed so I wouldn't have to work in the sun, then checked the voltage and it was 12.86V. Tried the trim at the helm and it worked fine, up down, then turned on the key, everything beeped and lit up. I also bumped the engine without an issue. Did the computer just need time to reset? Did the capacitor fix it? Who knows. I put a jumper in the boat so if it happens while on the water, I will tie 12V from the helm to the white wire to limp home. Judging from all the troubling shooting I did, I don't see where it would cause a problem. My only concern is the white wire feeds into a rely and the other side may not energize. I will keep the thread open and provide updates. I will also do more investigating once the manual arrives and I have a schematic to look at.

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      • #4
        Back to square one. Tried the helm this morning and it was dead again. Will resume trouble shooting later today.

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        • #5
          Hooked up the multimeter and watched the voltage climb from 3V to 9V, then hit the tilt switch, voltage jumped to 12V and everything worked again. This will make troubleshooting very difficult.

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          • #6
            I may have found the problem

            After receiving replies from Neverenough and Spurgersalty on 2cool fishing in Texas, I decided to start over and look at the engine interface cable that runs to the helm. I disconnected it to do a continuity check while my meter was hooked to the test point on the engine. Once it was disconnected, the voltage stopped dropping, reconnected it and the voltage dropped. Disconnected the end at the helm and the voltage continued to drop. Pulled on the cable and the voltage would change sometimes, other times it wouldn't. I am 90% sure it is that cable after all.

            I tried to pull the cable out but it must be wrapped around the steering and throttle cables because it only moved about 6 inches and that was after a lot of pulling. Mosquitos finally chased me in so I will try again tomorrow. If worse comes to worse, I may call around to see if anyone has the cable in stock and cut this one off.

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            • #7
              Ok, let us kow how you go. It sounds like theinterface cable, or perhaps a T piece on the network, might have gone bad? Wll watch with interest.

              I take it your intface cable is connected to the engine's SDS port?

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              • #8
                Final verdict

                It was the cable going from the engine to the helm. There was a connector that joined the 3 white wires under the floor and they were corroded. No tape, no heat shrink. Bad thing is, there was an extra 8' of cable at the stern and if they would have put it under the console, the corrosion problem would not have happened.

                A few things to note for others that will experience this problem.

                1. I had continuity from the engine to the helm.
                2. I didn't have 12V at the engine which is what really confused me.

                If anyone else has this problem, after you verify the fuses, pull the cable up from the floor.

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                • #9
                  Can i just confirm something- was the problem wiring:

                  (A) the main wiring harness from the engine up to the helm; or
                  (B) the NMEA 2000 cable running from the engine interface cable up to the helm?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Moonlighter View Post
                    Can i just confirm something- was the problem wiring:

                    (A) the main wiring harness from the engine up to the helm; or
                    (B) the NMEA 2000 cable running from the engine interface cable up to the helm?
                    It is the main wiring harness from the engine to the helm.

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                    • #11
                      I am having the same exact problem and have found your posting very helpful. Do you know if the plug connector coming from the main wire could be removed? Not sure if my problem is at the connector. By cutting it off I can measure the voltage and confirm whether it is the plug or the cable. Just didn't want to cut it off if the plug connector is necessary for some unknown reason. If it is the plug I was thinking of just connecting the wires, thus bypassing the plug.

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                      • #12
                        Just check for a voltage drop either side of the plug on the wire you want to check, that will tell you if you have a high resistance in the wire join in the connector.

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                        • #13
                          I get 12v on the red and the blue wire at the connector but 5 volts on the white wire at the connector. The problem is in the white wire but not sure if its the spade in the connector that corresponds to the white wire. I guess the only way to know is to cut off the connector and then check the voltage in the white wire? Thanks

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                          • #14
                            I connected the white wire directly to my fuse panel and the trim works. I don't have power to any of my gauges. WTF? Can anyone help?

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                            • #15
                              What engine and what year, and where abouts in the loom are you checking.

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