1987 DT200 No Spark

[Rockymet]

Hello to all. This is my first forum so I am not to sure what to do. I have a problem with lack of spark. Went fishing one day parked it. Went out the following week no start. I was a auto mechanic for 40 years and I have the suzuki manual. I checked the stop switch with a meter according to the book appears fine. I have checked all the coils in the magneto with an ohmeter according the tests in the book. I have power at the gray wire to the oil level reset. I havn't checked voltage at the coil outputs on the mag. I will do that next. Does anyone know of a test on the CDI. They show one with a dealer tester but not available. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[boats.net]

Usually the CDI's cannot be tested, if so the require specialty equipment.

[seaox230c]

Your CDI is not the same as the late model 225's so the trick is finding the actual wiring schematic of your engine to see how it works. You might have 2 fuses in plastic holders on the side of your engine...verify they are not blown. Do you have the actual model number of your 200 so I can cross refeence

[Rockymet]

DT 200 No Spark

Yes thanks Mod# DT200AELH Thanks for helping

[Shaun4BigBlocks]

Suzuki DT150 CDI Test Procedures

Hello to all. This is my first forum so I am not to sure what to do. I have a problem with lack of spark. Went fishing one day parked it. Went out the following week no start. I was a auto mechanic for 40 years and I have the suzuki manual. I checked the stop switch with a meter according to the book appears fine. I have checked all the coils in the magneto with an ohmeter according the tests in the book. I have power at the gray wire to the oil level reset. I havn't checked voltage at the coil outputs on the mag. I will do that next. Does anyone know of a test on the CDI. They show one with a dealer tester but not available. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I get sick of posters who “bump gums” without providing answers. At least no one on this post said to take it to a mechanic, if they did I would say become a mechanic and provide the answer. Hey, I’m a mechanic, take it to me, here you go! I’m too late for “Rockymet” but hopefully the other guy who excitedly clicks on this link won’t be disappointed at the post junkies wasting post space to “bump gums” and increase their post numbers. I don’t have a lot of posts; I’m usually too busy fixing things to hang out on forums. I have however been working on a thorough DT V6 “Bible” (from personal hands on experience) and until I’m finished I will resurrect incomplete posts whenever I get a bug up my jackass…

I should also state that the reason most posters are not able to answer most DTV6 questions is because of lack of experience. Most DYS types just swap parts. The actual Suzuki mechanics never really got to work on them, they primarily installed them and performed preventative maintenance. This is because the two stroke V6 Suzuki’s were so rock solid that they rarely ever broke down. As you probably know, Suzuki does not make a lot of excess key compenent replacement parts. By the time they were breaking down, the forced 4 stroke revolution was well in effect and most Suzuki mechanics, knowing the scarcity of parts coupled with challenging diagnostic procedures (as compared to all other outboards), started throwing out the phrase “I’m sorry but we only service 4 strokes). So that leads us to today, where we rely on used parts, lacking Suzuki literature, and not a whole lot of people who can speak “Suzuki” fluently. Most don’t answer. Others say “take it to a mechanic”. And worse, some just flat out BS or say that the problem can’t be solved. Some of us still like these engines, they sound like a muscle car and make the kind of torque that makes a Mercury XR6 scared. They are examples of some of the most early advanced systems. CDI’s over switch boxes, dual plugged cylinders, advanced warning systems, on board oil tank, ect.

This information is correct for 1986-1989 DT150, DT150SS, DT175, and DT200’s

You need a peak voltage (aka DVI Adapter) in between your test leads, the multi-meter should be shielded and preferably have a “min/max” and “hold” buttons (start cranking, after 3 seconds hit “min/max” and after about 5 seconds hit “hold”. I recommend a Fluke 83 (cheap on eBay) and not a True RMS multi-meter. Steven’s Instruments has a great DVI adapter (that I use), the only one that can also support “low volt option” and also makes the analog CD-77 originally used (and still available) by Suzuki. Steven’s is a pain in the jackass to deal with if you don’t have a marine shop with a tax ID so I would recommend CDI Electronics.

*If* you do this test BEFORE the CDI is bad without the DVI Adapter, you now have readings to troubleshot non intermittent/non high RPM CDI faults. Especially if your meter has a fast refresh capture rate.

I would recommend making two long 10 ft alligator clip jumper wires unless if you have an assistant to crank while you observe the meter.

Also, you are ideally supposed to make these checks with the plugs out of the engine and with a healthy battery during mild temperatures. It is not wise to crank an engine without the spark plugs grounded as the power load gets backed up, the coil gets hot, and bad things can happen. It is dangerous to have loose sparking plugs connected to ground via alligator clipped jumpers so I recommend a 6 wire spark tester such as a CDI Electronics 511-9766 or similar for safety and efficiency.

CDI Output:
The black test lead always goes to ground for the CDI tests
Put the red on each of the following (after unplugged from coil black/white wire):
Coil 1 Hot Feed: Orange 165v or over
Coil 2 Hot Feed: Blue 165v or over
Coil 3 Hot Feed: Grey 165v or over
Coil 4 Hot Feed: Light Green 165v or over
Coil 5 Hot Feed: White/Green 165v or over
Coil 6 Hot Feed: Blue Yellow 165v or over

Condenser Charging Coil Output:
Unplug bulkhead and test from non CDI end (wires lead top right behind cover hole) (bulkhead found on top of coil #2 on top left)
Meter Red to Green & Meter Black to Black/Red: 135v or over
(Resistance Test: 180-260 ohms)

Pulsar Coil Output:
Unplug bulkhead and test from non CDI end (wires lead top right behind cover hole) (bulkhead found on top of coil #2 on top left)
The black test lead always goes to ground for the Pulsar Coil tests
Put the red on each of the following:
Pulsar 1: Red/Black 2.0v or over
Pulsar 2: White/Black 2.0v or over
Pulsar 3: Red/White 2.0v or over
(Resistance Test: 160-240 ohms)

Counting Coil Output:
Unplug bulkhead and test from non CDI end (wires lead top right behind cover hole) (bulkhead found on top of coil #2 on top left)
Red test lead to Orange/Green & Black test lead to Black: .7v or over
(Resistance Test: 160-240 ohms)


Battery Charging Coil Output:
Disconnect the rectifiers (there are two)
-One (rectifier) to the right of the CDI that has a yellow, red, and black wire that comes out through the upper right hole on top of coil#1, it will have the black ground that connects to the threaded post.
-Another (rectifier/regulator) under the starter with the same colors, the black is hard to get to but you can leave that black ground wire plugged in.
The Red and Yellow wires used to test the 3 Charging Coils is located in the area of the 2nd rectifier, referred to as the rectifier/regulator by Suzuki. You can trace them up to the stator pretty easily, it should be wedged between the trolling speed knob and the plastic wire casing.
Red test lead to Red wire & black test lead to Yellow: 1.7v or over
(Resistance Test: Coil# 1- .05-.2 ohms & Coil# 2 & 3- .1-.4ohms)


IC Power Source Coil Output:
Unplug bulkhead and test from non CDI end (wires lead top right behind cover hole) (bulkhead found on top of coil #2 on top left)
The black test lead always goes to ground for the IC Power Source Coil test
Put the red probe on the white/yellow wire: 60v or over
(Resistance Test: 210-310 ohms)
**This is the wire with the funky old school cloth style insulation, it may be white and black from oil)

[Solarman]

gum bumpers?

Shaun 4, not all here have the experiences on the multitude of motors you have. The moderator is supposed to be the knowledgeable respondent on these posts. But, those of us here are trying to help others correct the problems they're having. To me it isn't a numbers game, it's about helping someone save money and find the problem with their motor.
As you point out, dealers interests are on 4 strokes. I'm a believer in the 2's, have twin dt140's ('99), on a 25.5 cat ('94). Parts are getting harder to find for older motors. Personally I hope they bring the 2's back, but doubt that will happen due to the $.

I do hope you can stick around here, and lend your expertise to a few more.

I did try to private message you, but this forum starts with messaging turned off, so to communicate personally with someone, they have to go to message options, and turn that feature on.

I also think a video of the equipment you use and your connections of each device, showing those specific tests, would help the owners (not as well endowed mechanically) understand considerably more. But for now, thanks. For trying to help rockymet with his problem.

If you know of a reason why my port motor eats a trim tab every trip out pm me, I've gone around securing, and adding grounds on my boat trying to correct it.

Thanks again, Ralph

[seaox230c]

Hi, don't have too much exp with the older carb motors but have had lots with my 2003 fi motor...you have no spark to all plugs? or just some...also do you have the CORRECT wiring prints The prints in my SUZUKI supplied manual were incorrect for my 2003...had to find the correct prints dispersed throughout the manual for different models and series that they don't tell you are effective. Poorly written. I am pretty good at deciphering wiring prints...please pm me any prints you have and the exact symptoms...no spark all plugs during crank....and stuff like that ...hate to ask...how do you know no spark....these motors turn over fairly easy...when I did compression tests and accidentally left 1 spark plug wire on with 5 cyls opened to atmosphere that motor would run on 1 cyl at idle...pissed me off every time...basically Suzuki manuals suck but the electrical components encased in urethane are pretty reliable...need lots of patience and the proper prints..there is no computer readout and throwing non returnable thousand dollar parts into it is a waste

[seaox230c]

Solarman.... cavitation eats a trim tab faster than bad electrolysis...I assume you mean steering trim tab....Figure out how long of a cruise eats your tab....then Idle at the dock for same time...if degredation is markedly different (less) then cavitation is your issue...if not then electrolysis is your issue

[Solarman]

Thnx seaox, ill try checking that next time out.

This above thread was pulled up by Shaun4 to post how to test some electrical on motors. The thread originated in 2012. No need to follow up on it.
But thanks for my help.