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  • Engine Holder Repair

    Since joining the forum and reading up on the engine holder problem I've begun preparing for the "hole" to occur. I've checked with a few of the local guys and they are stating that it will cost $500 to due to the welding. One guy however stated he would do the job for $200 if I had everything "ready" to go. Can anyone give me a breakdown of what I need to have ready for the welder? Do I need to remove the computer so it doesn't get shorted out? Any advice would be great so that I'm ready when the time comes. Thanks!

  • #2
    why not prevent the engine holder (steel plug) from happening before it does??? just remove the old steel plug, buy an after market replacement alloy one and your done.

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    • #3
      You can get the aluminum plug from ****plug.com for about $20 including shipping, but see if you can remove the old plug before you commit. I have the aluminum plug but have not been able to remove my old plug. I guess I will have to drill it out, saw slots to the threads, and knock out sections of the threads. My next project.

      Edit--For some reason this blog will not let me enter the word g o l d in the web address. What's with that?
      Last edited by nelbur; 08-22-2012, 08:25 PM.

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      • #4
        I would love to have prevented it. The motor is a 2005 and I purchased the rig 3 months ago. I don't see any major corrosion but the plug is practcally gone. I will have to drill it out and hope that the inside of the holder is strong enough to hold the new one. But what I was trying to figure out is whether or not I need to remove various electrical components to avoid damage while welding and any other steps to take so that my welder can quickly get his work done as to save myself some money.

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        • #5
          Thanks for the info nelbur!!!

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          • #6
            I guess to be safe, anything you remove could prevent damage, regardless of how remote the chance is.

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            • #7
              I was able to remove the old steel plug on my '05 DF 140, by drilling through it with a 1/2" drill, and cutting very shallow slots toward the threads using a metal cutting jig saw blade held in a visegrip. I then worried the plug using a large nail set and hammer, hitting the head toward the drilled out area to try to shrink the diameter of the plug enough to get it to turn. I was eventually able to knock the plug around and unscrew it using the nail set and hammer. I would have included a few pictures but this forum is not picture friendly.

              This was not an easy job, but a skilled DIYer can do it. I cleaned the threads in the engine holder, and covered them with Evinrude/Johnson Gasket Compound. I also covered the aluminum plug and it's washer as well, and screwed it in. It was a perfect fit.

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              • #8
                Ooooooh boy...I dealt with this problem. Personally, I would bite the bullet now and buy a new engine holder and replace it. It's not an impossible job. I tried "patching" mine, and I didn't find out it wast working until I fried my engine.

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                • #9
                  engine holder plug

                  I have a low hours 05 DF 115 that is used in fresh water only, the plug shows no external signs of corrosion. I am thinking I should replace the steel plug with the Aluminum one and get out in front of the problem. Should I expect to have difficulty removing the steel one?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by bigdude2468 View Post
                    I have a low hours 05 DF 115 that is used in fresh water only, the plug shows no external signs of corrosion. I am thinking I should replace the steel plug with the Aluminum one and get out in front of the problem. Should I expect to have difficulty removing the steel one?
                    I had to drill mine out. Mine looked perfect from the outside as well, but the internal corrosion was out of control.
                    -Shawn

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                    • #11
                      Could someone give a drawing of where is located the plug exactly in the DF 115 , please ??

                      Thanks in advance .

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                      • #12
                        You need to remove the lower left engine cover, the one the flush port goes through. On the 140 there is a round plastic cover over the exhaust plug. I assume it is the same for the 115. It is just a few inches above and in line with the flush port.

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                        • #13
                          I ordered the new aluminum plug from **** Plug, removed it with not too much trouble. My question is there is another plug, same size to the right and slightly above the lower one, it is also steel, does it need to be changed? And also the new aluminum plug is quite a bit longer than the one I removed so it has substantially more threads, is this correct also?

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                          • #14
                            I think the more you use them the less likely they will corrode

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                            • #15
                              What? the more you use the plug, I don't get it

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