can anyone help?

[fishwhisperer]

I checked compression 95 on all cyl. I had the injectors tested. All good. I have a spark on all cyl. The motor is running very rich and you can pull the plug wire off of the 3 hole and hear no change in the motor. It is running poorly. Anyone have any ideas? The closest dealer is about 7 hours away but I'm about ready to head that way. with the compression test being almost identical can I rule out a head gasket? thanks.

[boats.net]

What motor do you have? do you have spark at plug on that cylinder?

[fishwhisperer]

Dt140 efi 1999 there is a spark plug on all of the 4 cyl.

[boats.net]

Compression is a little low, but if you are getting fuel and spark to that cylinder and it is the only one that makes no difference when disconnected, then I stumped. Is the spark plug wet when removed?

[mphelle8vld]

Can't remember which cylinder the mechanical fuel pump is mounted to for its pulse, but if it's number 3 you may have a hole in the fuel pump diaphram allowing raw fuel to be sucked into that cylinder, quenching the spark at idle.

[mphelle8vld]

It's the silver hockey puck bolted to #3 cylinder crankcase.

[fishwhisperer]

is there a way to trouble shoot the pump? just look for a hole? i guess i dont see how the fuel enters the motor without going thru the fuel rail. if i try to run the motor under load without the plug wire on it does not run good at all. just trying to figure out why it is running so poorly. if there is a way the fuel can enter the cyl. without going thru the injectors that would make sense. i was thinking maybe the atmosphereic sensor could be malfunctioning creating a flood. hard to troubleshoot without purchasing the wiring harnesses. thanks for your help.

[mphelle8vld]

That pump mounted on the #3 crankcase operates on the pulses of air produced by the piston motion. There is a small hole in the crankcase that passes that pulse, if the diaphram has a hole or tear, fuel can be sucked into that crankcase on the piston upstroke.

To check the pump, remove the two screws that hold it to the crankcase and pull the pump away from it's mount. Pump the fuel bulb until firm, if you see any fuel dribble out of the hole in the back of the pump, it needs to be rebuilt.

[fishwhisperer]

I had high hopes that would be the problem. There was some 2cyc. Oil around the o ring but pumping the ball I could not get a drop out of the pump. Any other ideas? Thanks.

[mphelle8vld]

Me too... I just read over all of your posts for this motor, not sure why you keep starting new threads, it would be easier for people to understand if all the infomation was in one place. If you are saying that the motor was fine until your shift linkage broke, give us some more info on that along with some photos of what you did to fix it.

[fishwhisperer]

sorry about the new tread but the help quit coming. so i figured sounding more desperate it might help. i have attached a pic you can see the linkage that shifts for&rev has no thread on it that is where i put a die on it and threaded it back to the coupler. i do think that is a coincidence because if you disconnect that linkage and shift it by hand the problem does not go away. i also checked battery voltage at 12.7v at an idle. i am running a 24 size deep cycle(which i have ran from day one) it certainly does appear to be running rich. the more i run it the worse it runs. til the point when you need to open the throttle up to even get it to start. i am having problems uploading pics

[mphelle8vld]

I'd like to see the photo, did you adjust the linkage at the remote control box to give you the correct length after rethreading? Seems like the controls would bind up otherwise. Wondering if any wiring to the temp sensors was disturbed during the repair? Here is a link to the factory manual if you're game to continue troubleshooting, it's certainly cheaper than driving 7 hours.

Suzuki DT115 / DT140 Service Manual - Browns Point Marine Service

[fishwhisperer]

here is a pic. when i threaded it i was able to take it out of the motor compartment and back off the left handed thread in the coupler to take up the slack. i have purchased the seloc repair manual is it comparable? i am more than willing to keep on trying.

[mphelle8vld]

I agree that it seems unrelated, did the problem happen all of a sudden or did the rich mixture seem to slowly get worse? Not sure if the Seloc manual will have detailed troubleshooting and testing info on the various components, take a look and let us know, if you're planning to keep the motor for awhile, I would buy the factory manual and put the seloc out on ebay.

[fishwhisperer]

i am planning on keeping it. here are some resistive values for the windings, do you see any red flags? the seloc book does not have these listed correctly. grn&brn 472.91, wht/blk&rd/blk 326.66, wht/blu&wht/rd 47.56, blk/yel&blk/yel 18.16, red/yel .31, b/g&org 210.54. it started running poorly and seemed to be somewhat intermitten and now seems to be constant which should make it easier to fix.