df 150 stalling

[drifterny]

I run 2007 twin counter rotating DF 150s. They are both stalling. Only at idle speed, when shifting gears, or when starting. When I start them they will rev up to 2000 rs then drop down and stall. Sometimes when pulling into my slip when I shift from forward to reverse it will do the same thing. We were offshore the other day with a shark on the line, we tried starting the motors and they wouldnt get going at all. Lost the shark in the props. The motors have 600 hrs on them. I am run at least 100 gallons through them a week and always fresh valvetec fuel. Any ideas???

[boats.net]

These motors are completely computerized. They should be diagnosed by a an authorized dealer. Chances are it is a bad sensor or IAC valve.

[Harper]

Check this out...........(you've been there before, but read it again)

http://www.suzukioutboardforum.com/s...odd-start.html

[drifterny]

Harper, you have a good memory. I will check battery connections tomorrow. Thx

[Harper]

drifterny, I've found that my DF150 is very sensitive to battery charge. The motors are fine for most of the charge on the batteries, but will not fully charge the batteries. I've always topped off the charge with a battery charger when I got the boat home. When I wrote that thread, I had only a 30-something year old battery charger..... it was a manual charger, not automatic, so I would not leave it connected too long for fear of over-charging. I don't believe that I ever fully charged the batteries with that charger. I recently bought an automatic charger/maintainer that can remain hooked up unmonitored without any overcharge concerns. What I had found previously was that sitting on the water for a day with nothing on other than my chartplotter (plus an occasional light at night) would still drain enough off a battery to cause the starting issues, or a stall shortly after starting. That was why I started switching batteries when I stopped to fish. Just to see how much better the new charger was helping, for my week-long outing earlier this month, I worked off the same battery to see how long I could go before I experienced the starting problem. This time it actually went to the afternoon of the sixth day before it stalled at start-up. I switched to the fresh battery that hadn't been used at all during the week and didn't experience the problem again. I still haven't changed the configuration of the dual-battery switch or installed the dual charge cable to have the motor charge both batteries at once. I'll get to that one of these days, and I expect that the house/start battery setup along with using the automatic charger will solve the problem for good.

[drifterny]

Mike,

Its so true about using the battery. We were out the other day shark fishing with only the chartplotters on and washdown and the motors just wouldnt stay on.

I am going to add a 3rd battery with switch so that while we are fishing i can use that and when we need to start the motors I will flip back.

I am going to clean all my battery contacts today and hopefully locate the " white wire" and hopefully that helps. Its so sporadic. Today I went down, started em up and it was like they were brand new!

Thx for all your help. I will let you know how it goes.

[drifterny]

White Wire???

I just finally found it. Its connected to my power on/off switches in the rear of the boat. Shouldn't these be connected directly to the battery??? Very corroded, going to clean and reconnect, but I want them going to the right spot.

Should I connect right to the battery?? Someone told me that if they arent then the computer is resetting itself everytime I turn on the motors??

Mike, any info???

[Harper]

Wiring diagram has it connected directly to the battery with a 15 amp inline fuse. I have two batteries with a dual battery switch, so it would be connected to the output side of that switch. Don't know anything about ECM resetting with each restart, but I don't think it's a problem, as my battery switch stays in the off position (with neither battery connected) while the boat is out of the water. But it is definitely supposed to bypass the ignition switch. I think a lot of the boat manufacturers either ignore the wire or hook it up differently when they install the motor at the factory prior to shipping. When I finallly found my wire, it was connected to a buss bar at the transom, which would actually be the same as the output side of the battery switch, so I left it there. I'm pretty well satisfied that my problem has been less than full charge on the batteries, to the point of low voltage late in a day of fishing. The only thng I'm not sure about right now is the fuse. Anything hooked directly to the hot side of a battery should be fused, so although I haven't pursued it yet, one of these days I'm going to find the fuse, or install one if it's missing.