DF115 2005, voltage gauge, rpm gauge Trouble shoot

[kurttruk]

voltage gauge, rpm and gauge bounce around for about 10 seconds then the motor quit. No control of motor from helm, nothing. However the trim on the motor still works. Looked at all the fuses I could find and still nothing turned everything off back on still nothing. any ideas??

[boats.net]

Bad power or ground wire can cause the guages to bounce. Could have a bad throttle position sensor.

[kurttruk]

I was thinking that possibly the stator/rectifier went. I have yet to tear it down as I have been super busy but would these symptoms fit if the stator/rectifier went. I looked everywhere for a ground and could not find one.

[Harper]

I looked everywhere for a ground and could not find one.

"Ground" on a boat is the buss bar connected to the negative terminal of your battery. Wires that are connected to that buss are usually black or green in color. One or more of those wires could be loose or corroded, or the large main connector from the buss bar to the battery could be loose or corroded. Same goes for the positive buss bar. Check your connections.

[briscoe]

wires under console

Kurt, what Harper is talking about is the main ground wire under your console that feeds your instrumeent cluster.

[kurttruk]

I am aware of what he is talking about and no there are no "loose conections" on the negative or positive side of things. I am about to pull the fly wheel and check the Stator and Rectifier. I was hoping that it would be a fuse hidden somewhere however that is not the case. By ground I believe Harper ment the negative bus bar . I was thinking of a hot wire touching somethinig that grounded it out blowing a fuse somwhere.

[kurttruk]

I have been reading diagrams and am now wondering if the mag switch on the starter could go bad??? would that expain why the tilt trim works only on the motor but not at the binnacle nd nothing else even has power. And how often do magnetic switchs go bad and would something else cause that to go bad

[redlowrey]

Your main power cable from the battery runs to the starter solinoid and on the same terminal the power cable to run your ptt and and an other cable that powers your electrics and ecu through a thirty and sixty amp fuse under the cowling. If you know how to use a test light or multimeter you should be able to find the problem in a few minutes. Do this simple test to see if your starter works, make sure the engine is in neutral, make a jumper wire with a spade terminal on one end, and on the starter solinoid there is a spade conection disconect it and connect your jumper wire to it and touch the other end where the battery power cable connects on the solinoid the starter should work.

[kurttruk]

I was able to trace the problem to the ignition swith. I swapped the harness to the other side and it did the ame thing to the good side. Now I have two engines not working. I have a new ignition panel and switches in route. Question is will it be plug and play or will there be something else that needs replacing?