Suzuki DF140 (Frankenzuki) Rough, low idle.

[WEDOCQ]

I need some thoughts and ideas.

My original engine was a 2001 DF 115. I encountered the classic engine holder corrosion, along with a blown head gasket. I spent 4 months doing what Egorena is going thru. I gave up and decided to buy a new to me powerhead. I found one on ebay with real low hours and it included the engine holder and oil pan, but nothing else (ie electrical, intake, fuel injection, etc).

My challenge: Building what has been dubbed "Frankenzuki". The new low hour powerhead is a 2004. I picked up a ECU of Ebay for a DF140 that's a 2005. My original flywheel was not compatible, so it's been replaced with 2006 Johnson 140. I used the original stator, wiring harness, rectifier, fuel injectors, intake.

Final result:
Frankenzuki is ALIVE! (CLICK FOR VIDEO)

I took my "Frankenzuki" to the lake yesterday and she ran great! Best of all, no water in the oil after several hours of running it hard.

So here are my issues I do need to work thru.
1) It's idling a little low, I guessing around 450 rpm's
2) At around 1200 rpm's and in gear, the engine would surge a little off and on up to 1500 rpm's.
3) I am still using the DF115's hood. Is this bad?
4) I had to use the 2004 DF140 sensor that's on top of the engine near the thermostat. The connector for this one is different that the original df115. It's currently connected, but I don't know if it's properly connected because the wires are different. Any suggestions on figuring out whether I did it right?
5) Lastly, if I ever need to take this in for service, are they just going to laugh at me?

If you have any suggestions, comments that might help me along, that would be great!
Thanks,
Shawn

[mitch]

geez good on ya you can adjust your idle do you have a manual and what the hell was the motor doing on flea bay with out electrics? that sounds like a good story.

do you have a w/shop manual

[WEDOCQ]

Mitch,
I bought the powerhead from an outfit in the midwest. No salt! They basically part motors out. He had everything torn off this motor. It did come with the oil pan and engine holder, both of which I needed. Ya I have a shop manual. slowly decifering out what I need to do. Looks like the IAC valve needs to be adjusted from the DF115 settings to the DF 140 settings, and that will allow it to idle properly.
-Shawn

[mitch]

there is a idle screw................ but you can clean the iac valve check that there is no vacuum leaks around inlet manifold ..............one way of doing this is with a oil can just squirt oil around manifold joints and see if engine revs change or sometimes you can hear the suction slurping the oil...........i know it makes a frigging mess but it will wash off.

you have a pm as well

[bezerk]

you need the 140 hood was to get more air flow to engine.do you have the 115 ecu would great to see the diffance ,if any ,seeing you don't have the bigger pistons.
just the back hood scoop you need to replace.

[WEDOCQ]

There are more differences than just the ECU. The cams on the 140 are different, as well as the displacement (Piston size). The timing is different, and the IAC valve that controls air flow at idle is different. So I don't know how well the DF115 ECU would run it. I do have it, might be interesting?
-Shawn

[bezerk]

my mistake i thourght you had a 115 with a 140 ecu sensor must be right or you would be getting alarm.could allways unplug it and see if you get alarm. service is not a proplem all the same .the 140 does have a oil cooler where the oil filter is .

[WEDOCQ]

Ya, I needed to figure out how to route the oil cooler as well. It wasn't too difficult with the manual though.

[WEDOCQ]

One year update on FrankenZuki!

Well,
I put about 200 hours on the motor this summer, and it performed darn near flawlessly. No water in the oil! It started right up and purred like a kitten everytime.

Minor issues that I had to address were the IAC valve adjustment to bring the idle up a few hundred RPM and an intermitten overheat alarm (it was not overheating). The alarm was being caused by the plug I had previously suspected was not getting a good connection.

To make this project fit into my budget, I sold my original parts to help pay for the ones I needed for the 140. And for those wondering, YES, I did sell my 115 hood and bought a 140 hood.

Parts I bought for the 115 to 140 conversion
2004 Stripped down power head with engine holder and oil pan $2500
Flywheel $200
ECU $499
Hood $275

Parts I sold on Ebay from my 115
ECU $500
Hood $150
Cams $300
Flywheel $100

Not exactly breaking even, but a whole lot better than buying a new engine!

-Shawn