Dt2 motor carb issues

[MILLSMAN]

I have a awesome little 2HP Suzuki 2 Stroke (1984 I think) that I use to go fishing in the shallows around Miami. The motor starts up on first pull and runs great .......until I either slow it way down or stop it. Then it does not want to start up again. If I leave it sit for a few minutes or so it will run for 2 seconds or so then stall. If I keep pulling the start rope nothing will happen. If I let it sit for 5 minutes or so it will again run for a couple of seconds. I have bounced it up and down and shook it back and forth with no help. Then, all of a sudden it will start up again and go and go. I pulled the carb off, took it apart, cleaned it, pulled the gas tank off, cleaned it and all was perfectly clean. Motor did the same thing next time out I pulled it apart again and all looked fine. The float looked fine, needle valve looked fine, etc. When I manually push up the needle arm the needle valve closes and never sticks. Everything "seems" correct. What else should I look at/do. My arm is getting tired of pulling and paddling Thanks

[keakar]

its going to be a vaccum lock or vapor lock issue in the fuel system vent most probably.

check the tank vent and when it acts up see if taking the cap off the tank solves it

if its not the vent then it could be a fuel filter issue, sometimes a filter doesnt look dirty but it still gets blocked up especially those porus stone types

i would think if its carb related it would run or not run but not act up like that

[MILLSMAN]

I did take off the gas cap and it did not seem to help. I even blew into the tank thinking that I might force the gas through. Did not seem to help. I looked at the spark system today and it looked great. Just to be sure I lightly sanded the points and cleaned them. I checked the spark and it is strong. I will put in the water again soon and see what happens?? Thanks for your reply

[keakar]

run seafoam in your gas, it will clean out the fuel system and its also a fuel stabilizer

after a few tank fulls it should be running good again, if not pull and clean the carb but im not expecting it to be dirty im thinking you will find the float seat leaking causing flooding at slow rpms

the way its acting its either too much gas or not enough and you checked the vapor lock thing with the gas cap already so it must be flooding just a little so its only when your not using gas (like at idle) it starts to flood

pulling the plug right away and check for wet or really strong gas smell you might see signs.

a flooded engine needs to sit a few minutes for the excess gas to evaporate before it will run again

[MILLSMAN]

I am a believer in Seafoam myself and I will run some through it to see if it will help. The carb looks perfectly clean (it is a SU needle jet type carb), but you never know for sure. There are some very small passages in it. The next time it stalls out I will check the plug to see if it is wet. Although you can't smell gas when this happens it does not take much to flood such a small engine.

[Alex Delarge]

I know I'm resurrecting an old thread but my 1984 DT2 does the same thing and I believe it is overheating then shutting down. When it cools, starts back up runs fine as long as I keep the RPM's up enough so that the impeller can actually push water through the cooling system. I understand much of the telltale and exhaust exit under water but if the 2 little holes on the housing of the shaft aren't spitting out a little water it is not cooling. I broke it down last season and the cooling passages were clear. I'm guessing it is poor engineering cause at idle or a little more the impeller is not turning fast enough for cooling. My theory anyway.

[Solarman]

Yes, please start your own thread. On older motors, some of the exhaust grommets dry rot and allow exhaust gases to interfere with water pump pick-up cavity, could this be happening to your motor?

Good luck.